Burning trees

I went to the weekly demonstration against the separation wall in Nil’in today. The illegal wall has cut the village off from a third of its land.

Soldiers guarded the entrance to the village when I arrived with a fellow ISM volunteer. We asked the taxi to turn around and let us out 15 meters up the road. From here we climbed down the hillside over rocky, cactus terrain and through fences, in the midday sun. Two buses of demonstrators did not make it today because the army had declared the village a ‘closed military zone’ in an attempt to end the popular non-violent protests.

The small demonstration walked from the main mosque at the edge of the pretty village and through olive groves towards the wall. Some of the boys threw stones at the wall and over the top at the many Israeli soldiers behind it. The military fired huge amounts of tear gas and sound grenades at the boys, at us and at the olive trees. It is so hot here now that the gas canisters cause fires where they land.

It was about an hour into this exchange that I walked along the land near the wall and looked down into the deep valley. There were men working and a fire engine; the valley was black and the trees burnt. The army had apparently shot at the trees hours earlier in order to cause a fire and distract the adult men of Nil’in away from the demonstration.

Over one hundred of the farmers’ trees lost their olives for this year; a very sad sight to witness.

You can read a news report of the day here.
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Photos from Israeli land theft at Izbat At Tabib

Photos from yesterday.

Accessing village through the fields, people from Izbat At Tabib pleading with military, pepper spray, military building a fence on Palestinian land, women and children peacefully resisting.

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Just a fence?

I am now staying in the International Solidarity Movement’s apartment in Nablus, as I have decided to spend my remaining few weeks working back on the ground in Palestine.

Yesterday morning as I was sitting with my cigarette and lemon tea beginning a report for ICAHD, we received a call from the mayor of the tiny village of Izbat At Tabib. The military had arrived to begin construction of an illegal fence.

We were out of the door in ten minutes on our way to find transport. As we approached Izbat At Tabib it became clear that the army had blocked the village with jeeps and soldiers, so we asked the service to drop us further up the road so that we could sneak into the village through the fields.

The brief ISM report of the day can be viewed here.

I am always surprised at how quickly I forget the brutality of the Israeli soldiers toward Palestinians and peace activists. We were among them for several hours yesterday morning; they could see that we were no threat. And yet when they decided to push us back they violently shoved us loading their guns, using sound grenades and threatening us with pepper spray.

Fortunately I have not yet experienced pepper spray here. Like most of the warfare chemicals used by Israel, it is significantly more potent than in most places in the world (after feeling unwell most of last week, we are fairly certain that the seizure-triggering tear gas used at Qalandia contained nerve gas or similar).

Seeing the spray used yesterday was almost unbearable to watch. Two Palestinian men suffered from it. With their faces red from the chemical, they rolled around, screaming on the floor. When an ambulance arrived, the military pushed the demonstrators away from the more serious casualty, forming a line between us and him and not allowing the medics through to assist him.

At this point it was impossible not to plea with the army. We asked the soldiers ‘Where is your humanity? You have to let the medics though. This is cruel.’ We had just one response, ‘It won’t kill, it’s just pepper’.

Toward the end of the day when most people had been chased away, some of the local women came and sat on the rocks on their land, preventing the fence from being developed any further. We joined them and we don’t know if it was this action or the relentless heat or something else, but the five jeeps, 3 police vans, military bulldozer and approximately 30 heavily armed troops decided to pack up and leave.

They pushed us around a bit before they left – squabbling over which part of the road they would accept us standing on and trying to prevent a journalist from filming. The heavier border police who were dressed up a bit like the Terminator kept ordering the younger soldiers to move us. But of course we just laugh at them and don’t recognise any legitimacy in their orders on Palestinian land.

Photos to follow.

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Breaking the seige on Gaza Street

On Friday morning I followed a group of ten Israeli activists as they campaigned to break the seige on Gaza from West Jerusalem.

A Malaysian ship carrying aid to Gaza was attacked only last week and a Turkish flotilla was attacked in international waters last summer. Nine civilian passengers were murdered by the Israeli military.

On Friday the activists walked down Gaza Street carrying a freedom ship flag, playing drums and handing out paper ships with ‘Free Gaza’ written in Arabic and Hebrew.

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Slingshot Hip Hop

Hip hop evening in Sheikh Jarrah

A couple of nights ago the couple I am staying with invited me to a hip hop evening in a park in Sheikh Jarrah, the edge of Palestinian East Jerusalem. An excellent documentary about the roots of the Palestinian hip hop movement was screened, followed by live performances.

Children played around us as we sat on the grass watching this brilliant and exciting film. The artists were amazing too – I intend to further explore this powerful music on my return to live in the West Bank tomorrow.

The film maker’s publicity naturally sums it up perfectly;

“Slingshot Hip Hop braids together the stories of young Palestinians living in Gaza, the West Bank and inside Israel as they discover Hip Hop and employ it as a tool to surmount divisions imposed by occupation and poverty. From internal checkpoints and Separation Walls to gender norms and generational differences, this is the story of young people crossing the borders that separate them.”

If anyone has ideas for getting Slingshot Hip Hop screened in London, please let me know.

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Five minute film of Sunday at Qalandia

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A friend has put together this five minute film of last Sunday’s Nakba demonstration at Qalandia.

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Sunday (Al Nakba) in Qalandia

We walked down a busy street, traffic still flowing in the other lane. Refugees, students, men, women and children sang and clapped, waving olive branches, keys and flags. Most of the shutters were down but some shops stayed open selling cold drinks, tobacco and sticky cakes. Shopkeepers drank coffee on their stools, sharing greetings with us as we passed.

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When I heard the sound of fire I couldn’t believe it was happening so quickly. I stood surprised, as everyone turned and ran past me. I was irritated that someone knocked my cigarette out of my hand. A few seconds later I was on the floor in a doorway off the main road. I couldn’t breathe; my chest felt like it was exploding with fire. The tear gas wasn’t going anywhere. It was a mistake to shelter in this closed space. I tried to protect myself under my coat, wondering if I still had my camera and if I would manage not to vomit.

After five minutes it began to clear and I was able to look up and open my eyes. There were three international women and two Palestinians crouched on the ground by this door. And there was a little boy about six years old. He was sitting, shaking and crying. I sat with him for a minute trying to soothe him with ‘It’s okay, it’s okay’ and stroking his hair. But it wasn’t okay. This was going to be repeated over and over again for the next nine hours.

The thousand or so demonstrators picked themselves up, regrouped and began to march toward the soldiers again. Each time that we were forced to run back made me more determined and outraged that the Israeli military was standing in a Palestinian road, not allowing us to get near to the checkpoint that we were heading towards. Soldiers fired gas canisters up the street and, from the roof of a tall building that they had occupied, directly into the alley ways and courtyards behind the buildings so that there was never anywhere to escape.

After a while, the shabab (Palestinian boys) began to light a row of tyres between us and the soldiers. But I think it was the burning of an Israeli flag that triggered the first round of rubber tipped steel bullets. The army charged at us firing directly into the crowd as they ran. This triggered a frightening stampede. Bullets bounced off the walls and lamp posts around us and I focused on not falling in the chaos.

The shabab started to throw stones at the soldiers who were still 50 meters away; foreign soldiers who were firing at the boys’ families on their own land. This was met with live ammunition. Ambulances ran up and down the road treating non-stop injuries. 40 Palestinians were treated for serious bullet wounds at this demonstration.

The clashes lasted into the evening and we began to hear news of the other unarmed demonstrations around Palestine and Israel being met with disproportionate, brutal force. 16 Palestinians were killed on Sunday.

Israel likes to tell its Jewish citizens that the commemoration of Al Nakba, the day that Palestinians were driven out of their homes for the creation of Israel, is a threat to the state. Politicians like to say that popular Nakba demonstrations are a call for the destruction of Israel. It’s just not true.

People must be allowed to recognise the tragedies in their histories. Nakba does take on additional meaning because the Palestinians still don’t have their freedom. It is true that protesters are calling for the right of return of refugees, for an end to the colonisation of their land, for the reversing of Israeli apartheid and for the support of the international community which has failed them for so long. These are all legitimate demands.

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Waiting for Al Nakba

On Sunday 14 May, Palestinians will commemorate their catastrophe, Al Nakba. This is the day they remember the homes they had to leave in 1948, their family members who were killed during the creation of Israel or their friends who are now refugees in other countries.

For a people still under Israeli occupation, this day is always significant and perhaps more so this year as organised commemoration within Israel’s borders was recently banned. In addition, this year there have been calls for a non-violent third intifada (uprising) to begin on this day.

I noticed a strange and uncertain feeling within Israel and Palestine today. With the Palestinian Authority going to the UN in September to demand statehood, the only party to benefit from a violent, chaotic weekend is Israel. Western leaders who have recently expressed support for the PA’s plan, require little excuse to change their minds and agree with Israel that ‘Palestine is not ready for statehood’.

It is an interesting time politically to see the reaction to the ban in Israel, and I know there will be plenty of demonstrations around the borders. But I have decided to spend the weekend in the West Bank as suspect that the Palestinians here will pay the heaviest price (military response) for any activity. My presence here is therefore most helpful.

I walked through Jerusalem to Damascus Gate this morning. I stopped in the city centre to print some photos of a family in Deir Istiya. The studio staff were very friendly until they saw that the photos were of Palestinian villagers; and then I was practically kicked out of the shop.

Men prayer on street after being denied entry to mosque

Riot police guard Eastern wall of Old City

When I got to East Jerusalem, there were rows of riot police and soldiers guarding the old city. Palestinian men under the age of 45 had been banned from entering Al Aqsa mosque today and so were praying in the streets.

I took the number 18 bus from the Arab bus station to pass through Qalandia checkpoint to Ramallah. There were hundreds of Israeli soldiers at the checkpoint, loading up their weapons and jumping into trucks. An Israeli told me earlier that two thirds of Israel’s army have been deployed in the West Bank this weekend. This frightens me – this incredible quantity of soldiers will only act as a provocation.

Small demonstration in Ramallah

I arrived in Ramallah where there seemed to be a higher than usual Palestinian police presence. There was a small demonstration at Al Manara Square which I watched for ten minutes on the way to my favourite café. The café was closed when I arrived but they let me sit in their garden to use their wifi and made me a coffee anyway. Delicious Arabic coffee.

When I arrived at the service (minibus) station there were no vehicles going to Deir Istiya. I waited calmly, safe in the knowledge that I am always looked after here. Within ten minutes the men at the station had arranged for the only bus leaving that hour to detour via the village and drop me off. I insisted that this wasn’t fair to the other passengers but the women laughed at me, encouraging me to board with them and sharing sweets and giggles throughout the journey.

We passed through Zatara checkpoint and again I saw about one hundred soldiers instead of the usual five. The women on the service became nervous as they saw the guns pointing at the traffic.

The turning into Deir Istiya

I have really missed Deir Istiya over the last six weeks. I made the long walk through the village exchanging greetings with groups of old men walking back from mosque, little boys riding donkeys and men peering out of closed shops where they smoked argila and played cards. The goats have grown bigger, there are even more cats jumping out of the bins and the fruits are swelling on the trees.

I went straight to Sameh’s house for a late lunch and catch up with his family. Sameh is a teacher so has not been paid for two weeks. Israel has been with holding Palestinian tax which is used to pay PA workers. A cruel, bizarre and illegal response to the unification of Palestine’s two biggest political parties.

It is good to now be back in the house with the IWPS women. We are all hoping that this weekend will not bring the violence we expect. But with the additional checkpoints already set up in the area, the increased number of International and Palestinian injuries at demonstrations in the West Bank and Jerusalem today and this huge influx of Israeli military, it is impossible not to be afraid for the people here.

Tomorrow all five of us will travel to Iraq Burin for a demonstration against settler land theft and violence. This stunning little village lost two of its young boys at a non-violent demonstration last March. They were shot and killed by Israeli soldiers. A 19 year old was shot and killed by a settler whilst farming his land this January. And a few days ago a 24 year old was shot in the side by a tear gas canister fired at close range. I wish these weren’t isolated incidents.

The demonstrations over the weekend are calling for an end to the brutal occupation of Palestine. They will be happening outside Israeli embassies all over the world. Please consider standing in solidarity this weekend. Israel may moderate the force of its military if it feels that the world is watching.

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Memories in the Galilee

Yesterday I joined a bus of Palestinian Israeli students from the Hebrew university in Jerusalem. They were a joyful group, sharing water and snacks and singing along to the radio most of the way there. I felt extremely happy to be with them, if a little old.

We were driving to one of the 400 Palestinian villages that were completely destroyed during the creation of Israel. Every year Palestinian Israelis (those Palestinians who were able to stay within Israel’s borders), travel to the site of one of these villages for a peaceful commemoration of land and families lost.

After a hike, we gathered with approximately 2000 people amongst the trees. There were readings and poetry and Palestinians took small rocks as precious reminders of the land. I was expecting there to be a feeling of anger or despair, but it was not obvious. And in the absence of Israeli police, the day remained warm and peaceful.

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Independence Day in Jerusalem

Today is not an easy day to be a human rights activist in Jerusalem.

Today is Israeli Independence day, Yom Ha’atzmaut. This is the day that Israelis celebrate the establishment of an Israeli state in Palestine on 14 May 1948 (Israel follows the Hebrew calendar so this year it is celebrated on 10 May).

The Palestinians commemorate this date as Al Nakba; the catastrophe. This is in recognition of the estimated 700,000 Palestinian refugees who were driven from their homes over the few subsequent days.

In March this year, the Israeli government banned commemoration of Al Nakba by Arab citizens of Israel.

I support the right of anyone to celebrate their existence or identity. But when the human rights of the neighbouring 3 million Palestinians are being violated in the name of Israel every single day, Yom Ha’atzmaut feels quite painful. And when the Palestinian citizens of Israel aren’t allowed to acknowledge their own history, it is hard to understand how anyone can celebrate Israel as a democracy today.

Flags and stages have been erected around the city over the past few days. The fireworks began last night, so I stayed home to comfort the dog. I was glad to have an excuse.

I am about to walk through Jerusalem before I attend a solidarity hike in the Galilee with human rights conscious Israelis and their Palestinian friends.

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